Crazy About Chestnuts!
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire are a sure sign of Christmas but how about using these versitle nuts in soups, sides and pies?

By Carol Wilson

Winter has definitely arrived when fresh chestnuts appear in the shops. Hot roasted chestnuts are a traditional tasty winter treat. In the past the ‘hot chestnut man’ a traditional street food seller was once a familiar sight in winter, but nowadays is seldom seen - usually only around Christmas time.

Originally found in forests, woods and hedgerows, chestnuts were grown in parks and large gardens, although more for their ornamental beauty than their fruit. Gerard wrote in 1597 that the trees were ‘a stately adornment of some well kept English parks’. John Evelyn (1664) laid out the ‘stately avenue of chestnuts which was the glory of Greenwich Park’.

In the summer, slender flowers with a powerful aroma appear, while in the autumn the glossy dark green leaves turn to rich gold. The seeds grow into spiky green husks, which each contain between two to five closely packed nuts with a dark brown skin. In October the green protective covering splits into four and the seeds fall to the ground, where the skin of the fruits is protected by a lining of silky soft down. The nuts should be gathered quickly and spread out to dry.

Country people in the past used the leaves of the chestnut tree to make a tincture which was applied externally to relieve chilblains, eczema and rheumatism. Chestnuts were boiled in water and the resulting ‘essence’ was added to a bath to soothe skin troubles. The wood is of excellent quality but was not much used in building due to its tendency to crack with age. However a small part of the thirteenth century roof of St Albans Abbey (now the cathedral) and the cloister roofs of Winchester College are of chestnut. The wood was also used to make fences and stakes as well as wine casks and the hoops which went round them, as it doesn’t rot if stored in damp conditions, such as cellars.

The starchy sweetness of chestnuts makes them very versatile and they were regarded as an important winter food for hundreds of years. They can be boiled, roasted, added to soups, stews and casseroles, combined with vegetables such as cabbage or sprouts, or served as a vegetable in their own right. They can also be combined with sugar and other ingredients to make puddings, desserts and cakes.

Unlike other nuts, chestnuts have a low fat content (and most of this is unsaturated); contain no cholesterol and are high in energy- giving starchy carbohydrates, which also makes them easier to digest than other nuts. Chestnuts are a good source of vitamin C, some B vitamins and vitamin K, plus significant amounts of calcium, magnesium and phosphorus and a small amount of protein.

The chestnut season is short, but whole peeled chestnuts either canned or vacuum packed are available from major supermarkets. Dried chestnuts are also available from health food stores, but must be soaked in water overnight then simmered before use. Canned chestnut purée - plain or sweetened, saves hours of preparation.

Fresh chestnuts must always be cooked before use and are never eaten raw, owing to their tannic acid content. Slit the shells (to prevent them exploding in the oven!) and place on a baking tray or in a roasting tin and put into a hot oven - Gas 6/200ºC/400ºF for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively place the slit nuts on a plate, 6 at a time, in the microwave and microwave for 30-60 seconds. You can also boil them – simmer the peeled nuts in a little boiling water for 15-20 minutes until tender. In Portugal chestnuts are boiled in lightly salted water with a little aniseed which gives the nuts a delightful flavor. Peel the nuts while hot, (it’s impossible to peel a cold chestnut!) to ensure the complete removal of the inner brown furry skin, called the ‘tan’, which is bitter. 450g/1 lb fresh chestnuts (weighed in their shells) is equivalent to 175/6 oz dried, reconstituted chestnuts or 350g/12 oz tinned or vacuum packed nuts.

Chestnut flour, made from dried ground chestnuts is worth seeking out from larger supermarkets, specialist food shops and delicatessens. Chestnut flour is pale brown with an unusual but pleasant smoky flavor. Gluten free and nutritious, it features frequently in the cooking of northern Italy where it is used to make delicious breads, pancakes, fritters and cakes and is also a useful thickener for soups and stews. Although it doesn’t keep well, the flour can be frozen, well wrapped, until needed.

CHESTNUT SOUP
An old favorite, that’s deliciously warming in winter.

2 tablespoons oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
450g/1 lb fresh chestnuts, prepared and peeled
1.2 litres/2 pints vegetable or chicken stock
1 potato, sliced
1 bay leaf
Pinch paprika
Salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion and carrot for 5 minutes. Add the chestnuts, stock, potato, bay leaf and paprika. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Cool and puree in a blender or push through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reheat and serve.

CASTAGNACCIO
An unusual cake, a speciality of Tuscany and Liguria. Serve warm, when the inside will be creamy. It is particularly delicious eaten with cheese.

300g/12 oz chestnut flour
Pinch salt
500 ml/17 fl oz water, approx.
2 tablespoons olive oil
75g/3 oz sultanas
75g/3 oz pine nuts or walnuts
Few sprigs fresh rosemary

Place the chestnut flour and salt in a mixing bowl and gradually add the water until a smooth batter forms. Stir in the oil. Sultanas, pine nuts and 1 sprig chopped rosemary leaves. Stir well to combine and pour into an oiled 25 cm/10 inch round cake tin. Arrange sprigs of rosemary on the surface and cook for 25-30 minutes Gas 7/220ºC/425ºF until crisp and golden.

CHESTNUT ICE CREAM
Made with tinned sweetened puree, this ice cream is quick and easy to make.

225g tin sweetened chestnut puree
2 tablespoons single cream or milk
300 ml /1o fl oz whipping cream
50g/2 oz Golden Icing sugar, sifted

Mix the chestnut puree with the single cream or milk to a smooth paste. Whip the cream with the sugar until thick but not stiff and fold into the purée. Turn into a freezerproof container, cover and freeze until firm.

CHICKEN, CHESTNUT AND CRANBERRY PIE
You can use prepared fresh chestnuts, tinned or vacuum packed for this recipe.

400g/14 oz shortcrust pastry
175g/6 oz cranberries, thawed if frozen
175g/6 oz cooking apples, peeled and chopped
450g/1 lb cooked, skinned boneless chicken pieces
200g/7 oz chestnuts, chopped roughly
Salt and pepper
Pinch grated nutmeg
150 ml/ 5 fl oz chicken stock

Roll out the pastry and cut in half. Use half to line a 23 cm pie dish or flan tin. Scatter half the cranberries, apple and chestnuts on the base of the pastry case. Add the chicken pieces and scatter with the rest of the fruit and chestnuts. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pour over the stock and cover with the remaining pastry. Decorate with pastry trimmings and glaze with beaten egg. Make 2 slits in the top of the pie to allow the steam to escape and cook for 30-40 minutes Gas 5/190ºC/375ºF until the pastry is crisp and golden. Serve immediately.